Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Asia Trip 2011 - part 8 - China I


Shanghai
Monday
We arrived late Monday so all we did was go to our hotel, the highway was really big and well kept, it was pretty impressive. It was pretty hard to communicate with people, since no one spoke any English, not even the people at the hotel. The hotel was a super 8 hotel, but it was a little shady. There was no wi-fi and the LAN internet was really slow, especially google pages, as for facebook…completely blocked.

Tuesday
We got in touch with our friend Richard, who we had met in Bhutan and he suggested that we buy of those bus tours. We took a cab that took us downtown where we bought our passes. The idea is that these buses run continuously around the city and you can get off and back on at any station (14 total I think). So we got on the bus which took us through the historic part of the city, it’s always cool to see cities that conserve old buildings and have a nice looking downtown.

We got off at this stop  where there was a little shopping area, we looked around and bought some stuff, my dad bought this little portable speaker of which all of his brothers wanted one back in Colombia. Still walking around we got to a spot where there were a bunch of people who approached/harassed us offering stuff to buy for really cheap, these included watches, iphones, ipads, designer clothing and other stuff that we didn’t really want. Later on, we saw this group of guys selling roller skate attachments for your shoes. They were kind of like those shoes they sell now that have wheels under them, but these were attachments so we thought it would be a really cool idea, initially they asked for 500 yuan (7 yuan to a dollar) and we told the guy to get serious and leave us alone, so he came back and kept offering lower and lower prices until eventually we bought a pair for 100.  Then another guy came up and started offering me another pair for 100…80…60! ok 60, I thought it was a good deal so why not? My dad gave him a 100 bill and he reached in his pocket and gave us 2 20’s. Alright, good, no big deal.

We went into a McDonald’s, ordered lunch and when my mom went to pay for our order the cashier laughed and told us that 20 bill was not from there. After more careful examination it was pretty obvious that the bills, although they were the same color as the Chinese 20 dollar bills were Russian which made them worth about a 5th of what we expected. We were a little mad/amused, and I decided to try and do something about it, I went back to where the guy had tricked us and there were about 8 other guys selling the same stuff, they all greeted me with smiles and some even laughed, it was pretty obvious that they knew what had happened. I asked them where the guy was and they acted like they had no idea what I was talking about, or which guy I meant, or like they understood English at all…all while laughing and (I think) making jokes about me.

There were some security people next to us since there was a jewelry next to where they were so I asked them for help and they basically said “just get over it and move on”. Don’t ask me why I decided that I was going to push a little further and so I said I’d call the police. After a few threats that were responded to with laughter one lady, who was kind of with the group, came to me and said “look there is a pubic phone over there the number is…whatever it was”. I think she thought I was bluffing, because she was laughing and still talking to the guys while she told me. I walked towards the phone...dialed the number…After they answered and asked me what was going on I looked at the lady and asked her the name of where I was, she told me, and looked back at the guys with a “he’s actually doing it!” kind of look. I said that I was at whatever place and that someone had just robbed me and the lady on the phone said that she didn’t speak English and so she would get an interpreter, while she was doing that the call was dropped. I thought about it for a second and said…ok I’ll just wait here for them to come. I looked up and all of a sudden the 8ish guys who were sitting there laughing had vanished. Completely gone.

It felt pretty good so I went back inside the McDonalds and finished lunch. When we came back out we walked by the same place and the guys were sitting there again but got up and started slowly walking away like it was no big deal…just walking away for no reason. I did not see the one guy who gave us the Russian bills though. We walked away and continued our journey.

Our tour bus took us by the site of the first communist party meeting, which was next to a beautiful park/garden. Maria had fun at first on her new skate/shoes but she got a little frustrated and since we all started telling her what to do, she got upset after a while. We got back on the bus and went under the river through a tunnel, I took a little nap while we rode around the business district. Some people from Mexico and Korea started talking to us on the bus, they were very nice. We went by a walking/shopping district but we decided not to stop there.

Our tour ended where it began, we found a nice restaurant where we sat down, had an overpriced smoothie, and asked to borrow the telephone so we could get in touch with Richard, our friend. He told us to get a cab and go meet him at work, he would invite us to dinner that night. We had peanut and strawberry ice cream for dessert…but that was also the first thing they brought apparently in Shanghai they prefer to have everything served at the same time so you can choose which order to eat things in, he also order a weird pineapple/shrimp dessert that happened to be very delicious. Richard is a teacher who goes to third-world countries and teaches…kind of general education and creativity to children, so he showed us some cool videos that he uses. We talked about some of the things we had noticed in China (oh and by the way in pretty much every neighborhood there were clothes hanging outside). One of the most interesting things he said was that people have a very strange love/hate relationship with china so everything that they find even remotely criticizeable becomes automatically a hot topic and it’s because of communism. With respect to Google and how they filter their results in China because the government demands it, he said that he thought it was a good thing, now peole may have access to 80% of the information and articles out there, but before Google, or if Google had not agreed to comply with the demands of the government they would have much more restricted access. Another example he talked about was that a new law that was about to be put into place, ads for luxury items were going to be banned in areas where there is poverty, some people will say it’s censorship and goes against freedom of speech, but some other people say it’s insensitive for companies to put up such ads and that it’s a good thing for the government to think about that, much like in the US you can’t have naked images in publicity.

We talked about other things, like culture and how much can be justified by that, girls being raped by their family members in regions of India, girls being sold between families in native tribes in Colombia?

It was a very pleasant dinner we were taken to our hotel where the internet sucked we slept and…

Wednesday
Left for Xi’an the next day. We ended up in the wrong terminal, but luckily we found out in time to run to the other one and make it to our flight…and find out it was slightly delayed.


Xi-an
Wednesday
We landed and looked for a tour agency as always, we found a good one for pretty cheap. The people were noticeably nice, a lot of people simply came to us and asked us what we needed and such, there was a guy who told us he studies English and so sometimes he just likes to act as tour guide for people to practice his English for free…although after having seen the movie taken I don’t really know that the guy’s intentions were all that good.

The first part of the tour took us to the ruins of Banpo a town that is supposed to have existed 6000 years ago. From there we went to the site of the (drumroll) terracotta warriors.

We got a guide who took us through the line, it was a rainy Wednesday morning but still the place was completely crowded. We waited in line for a while, and then got in a little car that took us to the site. We entered this huge hangar looking thing and got to see the first pit of warriors. It is really intense to walk in there and see rows and rows of warrior statues lines up as if getting ready to go to battle. The sight is hard to describe, so many things went through my head it’s such an overwhelming sensation to see something so grand in front of you. There were about 12 rows, about 5 feet wide completely filled with lines of warriors and horses in different stances. Each warrior’s face was modeled after an actual warrior or the army at the time; there are 4 kinds; generals, soldiers, archers and advisors. All of the statues were hand painted to great detail but they are so old that when exposed to sunlight the colors fade within 20 minutes. Some are kept in the dark for those reasons and are not available for the general public, also some are still buried. In some areas the ceiling collapsed, and so a lot of them were broken but they are being restored, which must be a pretty cool job.

The idea behind them is that in Chinese tradition terracotta (cooked dirt) warrior statues are very common, lots of people have them in their houses or offices as protection from evil spirits and energies, the emperor at the time built them with that kind of idea in mind, to protect him and the country. We visited 3 of the 4 pits that are there; the first one is the one most people probably see in pictures and documentaries. In the second one the statues are organized as if in a meeting room, it’s really dark in that one; the last one is as almost as big as the first one, and most of the warriors in this one are covered or still unburied, but they have 4 on display in crystal cases that one can get really close to. They also had a few displays that contained the weapons they were buried with, supposedly, and I didn’t hear about this until I came back to the us, the technology used to make the weapons made them not only really sharp but also incredibly long lasting, it is also a lost art in the sense that we have not been able to replicate the results.

They were found by a farmer in the 70’s while digging for water, now he’s really rich and happy supposedly…also he happened to be there that day signing copies of his book. Walking into the little souvenir store was really strange, there we were, 4 occidental looking people walking into the shop in a sea of locals, the farmer who discovered the warriors treated us very nicely, shook our hands and offered us to buy and sign his book for us, but whenever anyone else approached him and try to shake his hand he seemed a little annoyed. Right after that we walked into a section where they sold replicas of the statues, they varied in size from 2 inches to 7 feet. The person in charge, again saw us and approached us in order to offer us the statues, the life-size replicas, he said, were made using the same techniques used for the originals, dried (cooked) in the sun and not in an oven, which makes them more durable and they are made and certified by the archaeologists that study and restore the real ones. The price was 17,000 yuan (2700 USD) and after a while he even offered us a 50% discount and free shipping to Cartagena, a maritime port in Colombia it would only take 3 months.

We went ahead and bought our uncertified oven cooked 2 inch replicas, and went our way. The next destination they took us to was a silk factory, we got to see how they get the silk thread from the cocoon and then all the different products which ranged from shirts to bed covers. The stud was pretty cool and lookd like really good quality, the prices were not ridiculous, and I actually found a really nice shirt that I thought was not too expensive and treated myself to it. I’m still pretty happy with it.

Next up was “the hot springs” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yang_Guifei). We were not really sure where we were going or what the plan was but it was part of our tour so we assumed it would be awesome. It was, we entered this palace with really beautiful, typically Chinese gardens and houses. Again the attention to detail in decoration and architecture impressed us; the dragon statues on the ceilings gave it a really cool touch.
This used to be a palace built for the daughter of someone really important we got to see the bathing rooms for the princess which were basically huge and very luxurious (for the time) pools.

This also happened to be the place of the “Xi’an event” which had to do with the civil war in china and the communist party, also the fact that Taiwan is not really part of China anymore. They have little crystal cases protecting bullet holes in windows and walls with lettering that says “Xi’an event bullet hole”. The place was actually quite impressive (like most of the things we saw really) but it must have been really incredible to live there, a beautiful palace in the middle of the nowhere and where all you can see is mountains and forest around you. The lake in the middle of the palace reminded me of the song Lady of the Snow by Symphony X, and the imagery that Walter and I discussed a few times. We saw a poster for a show called song of eternal sorrow, it is a light/music/dancing show that they play there every night, it’s really beautiful and amazing…supposedly we didn’t get to see it because it was a rainy-ish day and so they were not having it, I was really excited about it but oh well, I’m hanging out in China so I don’t get to complain.

We got to the hotel, which I had booked online and paid for 2 nights before…for the night before…go me. They saw that we were pretty upset and lost and said that they really wanted our business so they gave us like a 50% discount on the night that we actually stayed there, it was really nice of them. The hotel was pretty nice although it also had semi-crappy internet (not as bad as in Shanghai), it also had an interesting assortment of goods available for us in the bathroom, men’s and women’s underwear, a vibrator-condom and, this one was actually really cool, a disc about 1.5 cm. tall and 2 cm. of radius with a label that read magic towel. It was 10 yuan I think so my dad and I decided it was worth satisfying our curiosity. We opened it…and it stayed that way, the instructions said put in water, we did and it slowly started expanding until it became a 40 by 40 cm. hand towel, it was pretty cool. Maria and I read some Goosebumps (the night of the living doll 3) and went to bed.

We would be flying to Beijing to see great wall the next morning.